Afternoon Tea
by Sibéal McCourt-Bincoletto
It’s coming close to Valentines Day. And I have no interest in writing about anything regarding Cupid, romance, or special dinners for two. I hope that no one is disappointed or offended, but I have never been a real Valentine’s Day aficionado. Perhaps it is because I know there are plenty of sources that are going to inundate us with all sorts of Valentine’s whimsies. And good for them. Or perhaps it is because I am married to a wonderfully romantic Italian who makes every day feel like Valentines Day. Ok, ok - you can groan if you like. Don’t worry this article is not going to dissolve into maudlin musings about my marriage. |
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Without meaning to sound superior, I have never found an afternoon tea of any merit at the various hotels or restaurants in Canada which offer it. I’m sorry, but the purveyors of anything culinary just do not understand it. No, afternoon tea is not simply rock hard scones and whipping cream, a few soggy sandwiches thrown in for good measure and a pot of warm (not even boiling) water in a tin pot with a tea bag on the side. Pleeeaase, I wish hotels would not even try if that is what they are going to produce. |
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This past Christmas Season I had the misfortune to attend afternoon tea at the Fairmont Hotel McDonald in Edmonton. This event was nothing short of shameful. For an appalling price we were treated to ¾ of a sandwich, leather scones which were a dentist’s dream come true, thin whipping cream, something that dubiously served as |
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jam and a platefull of dry, unappetizing squares that were acting in disguise of so called “cakes”. I’m not looking for fine china or fancy tablecloths, although those are always wonderful. I am, however, looking for something interesting, tasty and, if truth be told, self-indulgent. Traditionally, afternoon tea consists of a selection of sandwiches and savouries, followed by scones or pastries, cookies, plain cake and quick breads, with a more elaborate cake for the finish. It is perfectly acceptable to substitute toast, crumpets or English muffins for the scones. Of course, tea is critical or coffee if you are not a tea drinker. However, other drinks can be added. In summer, for example, iced tea, fruit cordials and fruit cups are wonderful. In winter, try spiced tea or warm cider. |
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For
the tea a choice is usually offered between Indian and China, served
with either lemon slices or milk. Fruit or herbal teas are also
fully suitable. I know that you have probably heard adinfinitum
about how to make proper tea, but don’t forget that “tea”
is the key term in afternoon tea. Stick with these basic guidelines: |
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• Use the best quality tea you can afford. • Fill the kettle with cold water. • Warm the teapot with hot or boiling water. • Use 1 teaspoon of tea for every ¾ cup of water. • When the water is boiling (please note - the term boiling does not mean tepid), pour it over the tea, replace the lid and steep it for 3 to 5 minutes. • Always, always serve tea freshly made. |
To make the sandwiches, work on a large enough space that you can cut, spread, and assemble all in one spot. Prepare the sandwiches as close to serving time as possible to maintain freshness. If you need to make them ahead, cover the plate with a lightly damp tea towel and store in the refrigerator. Use your creativity when choosing the type of bread (white, whole wheat, rye, raisin, pumpernickel, etc.). Try to keep the slices thin. For the fillings the variety is infinite. Of course there is the classic cucumber or watercress, but there is also tomato, shrimp, chicken, avocado, ham, chicken, cheese, fig, fish and on and on. When spreading your filling or butter be sure to spread no thicker than the thickness of the bread, taking it to the edge and keeping it evenly thick. Do not run over the sides. If a recipe calls for the bread to be buttered before adding the filling, you should neatly and lightly spread with butter first. The crusts should be cut off the bread after the sandwiches are filled and then cut into shapes (quarters, circles, hearts, triangles, etc.). Savories are usually more elaborate than sandwiches, but they add a real sense of adventure to afternoon tea. They can include anything from mini quiches to salami puffs; from crab and ginger triangles to scotch eggs. The assumption is to have something tangy and tempting, which will compliment the whole food experience. Scones are wonderful anytime. I have a superb, tiny (6 inches x 6 inches) scone recipe book, which I don’t think you can get anymore. However, if you ever have the chance to find the book Simply Scones by Leslie Weiner and Barbara Albright (published in 1988 by St. Martin’s Press; ISBN 0-312-01511-9) pick it up. It has purely the best scone recipes that I have come across. I am including a few of their recipes in this article just because they are so great. These scones have a lovely texture and are moist and addictive. Too often American and Canadian recipes for scones are variations on the American biscuit, which can be very dry, due to large amount of baking powder used in the recipe. |
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In
fact, scones originated in Scotland and have been an integral part
of the British lifestyle for hundreds of years. I produce scones
at breakfast, brunch, and even supper. Sweeter than biscuits, more
delicate than bread, and healthier than cake, scones can be enjoyed
quick and easy, fresh from the oven. Scones are versatile, a perfect
companion |
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companion with spices, fruits, nuts, preserves, or clotted cream. They are also ideal as shortbread, or served as a compliment with cold cuts, cheese, soup, stews, or chilli. Then
there are the creams, jams and preserves. You can lavish these on
your scones or hold back if you like. The cream, however, should
be a true farmers or clotted cream. Many places serve whipping cream,
which is a crime. If you cannot get good thick fresh cream, don’t
bother. Leave it out. Jams or spreads can be equally outrageous
– apple butter, chocolate nut, raspberry cream cheese or even
herb. Of particular personal note, I am including a recipe for proper
Irish Lemon Curd here. Do not be fooled, true lemon curd is not
the lemon meringue pie type of spread that so many cookbooks suggest.
Lemon curd for afternoon tea is tangy, creamy, made fresh and kept
in jars. |
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Afternoon
tea is a treat for a world that is running too fast. Take some time
to enjoy this lively but soothing experience. Invite your family
and friends and get to know them again. Chat about nothings rather
than the troubles of the world. You would be surprised at how refreshed
you feel! |
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Sandwiches
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