Summer 2002


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Fabiano 1912-2002: Celebrating 90 Years

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Remembering Phylloxera
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Concha y Toro
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Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup And Roasted Tomato Soup With Cerrano Cream
Sweet Corn Bread
Crystal Malt Crusted Arctic Char In A Raspberry Ale Basil Sauce
Grilled Asparagus With Bocconcini And Persimmon And Horned Melon And Dragon Fruit Mayonnaise
Indian Assam Tea And Lime Sorbet
Rack Of Lamb With Caramelized Shallot And Thyme Crust
Roasted Root Vegetables Served With Wild Mushrooms And Imperial Forbidden Rice
Celebration Bombe - Layered Ice Creams Composed Of Fresh Raspberry, White Chocolate Mousse And Wild Blueberry Wrapped In Callebaut Dark Chocolate
Almond And Mixed Berry Biscotti
Thyme
Wine Education
Ask Mick Merlot
Travel
 

Concha y Toro

by William Bincoletto

When Ram Jacob, export manager of the Concha y Toro winery, came to Alberta, guess who showed up for some tasting?

Their introductory line, Casillero del Diablo, has never disappointed. Originally created for Don Melchor himself, he used to amuse himself by repeating that the Devil lived in the cellar to keep strangers away from his private batch; hence the phrase Casillero del Diablo.

2001 Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc
100% fermented in stainless steel and aged five months sur lie, this sauvignon blanc is certainly an easy drinking wine with pronounced citrus and grassy sensations. Along with crisp acidity, light aftertaste and finish, this wine is a perfect aperitif wine for any occasion.
Rating: 3 grapes

2001 Casillero del Diablo Syrah

As with many other producers, syrah has now become a grape to be contend with in Chile. And so it's no news that Concha y Toro has joined the many others in their quest for great syrah.

With deep purple tones, rich nose of blackberry, hints of mint, eucalyptus, good balance of alcohol, tannins and structure, this wine offers elegant taste and finish. And what is encouraging to see, is the quality of syrah arriving at such a great price. At well below the $13.00 range, this is a MUST to buy by the case!

Rating: 4 grapes

1999 Trio Chardonnay
100% stainless steel with eight months on light lees, this wine feels more complex on the palate than on paper. From the reputed Casablanca region, ('99 was a very dry year) it is quite forward both in fruit and richness. The distinct acidity keeps the wine very much alive, rounding it with supple flavours and finish. Think seafood with a capital S.
Rating: 3 grapes

2000 Trio Merlot
A controversial wine at best. My co-taster Ivan Ivankovich gave it high marks, I did not. From the Puemo Valley in Rapel, this wine, 95% merlot, 5% cabernet sauvignon, is aged for six months in MT French oak giving soft textures that may seem mouth pleasant. I found the vegetal flavours overpowering the potential berry fruit. Need to re-taste it again next year.
Rating: 2.5 - 3.5 grapes


Left: The Puemo vineyards
Right: The Puente Alto vineyards

With the Marques line, come great value with superb quality. While we did not have the chance to taste the 1999 Marques Merlot (it did not arrive in time for the tasting, but should arrive soon), both these wines have been internationally recognized as best buys.


1999 Marqués Cabernet Sauvignon
100% Cabernet, from the Puente Alto vineyard in Maipo, this wine is aged 14 months in one, two, and three years old French oak barrels, then aged for a further six months after bottling. Rich black fruit nose with layers of smoky oak, white pepper, eucalyptus, and alcohol, this wine is continuously bursting from its seams. With a rather shy beginning, the wine opens nicely by mid palate, ending with strong, powerful, elegant finish and round yet sound tannins. A great combination of power vs. smoothness. At under $15.00, BUY BUY BUY!
Rating: 4 grapes

1998 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon

The 1998 vintage, climatically marked by the "Niño" phenomenon that caused abundant rainfall, temperatures somewhat lower than normal and little sunlight forced to harvest later than normal.

Concha y Toro tells us "This situation was a real challenge when it came to handling the foliage so that a healthy and mature grape could be harvested. This slowed down the maturing of the tannins which meant that this year, more than others, the date of the harvest could only be determined by actually tasting the grapes. Thanks to excellent vineyard management, how it has been divided up for harvesting and the unique conditions of the soil in Puente Alto, we were able to get the grapes to the cellar in optimum condition."

Since its first vintage in 1987, Don Melchor has become a name onto itself. Entirely from the Puente Alto vineyard, this wine is aged for 13 months in 53% new and 47% one year old oak. Full of cassis, burnt cedar, and hints of bacon and mushrooms, this wine, from 30-40 year old vines, certainly needs patience and time before expressing its true self.

Rating: 3.5 - 4 grapes

And what about the 1999 vintage? Ramon indicated that it is regarded as an outstanding vintage but with a surprise twist, there will be, for the very first time, a 5% cabernet franc in the blend.


The Purple Feet Rating System:

5 grapes = spectacular
4 grapes = delicious
3 grapes = yummy
2 grapes = okay
1 grape = awkward

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